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Families spend soggy weekend camping, kayaking in Alaska's Resurrection Bay
FAIRBANKS – From inside the warm, dry cabin, I couldn’t tell if the thermometer hanging outside the window was stuck on 50 degrees or if that was the actual temperature. The thermometer needle hadn’t moved in the past 24 hours.
One thing that I did know is that it was raining. It had been raining most of the night and all day. The steady rain pelted against the cabin’s metal roof and poured off the eaves onto the wooden deck like a waterfall.
The fact that we had left hot, sunny Fairbanks, where the temperature was forecast to be 80 degrees for five straight days, tried to pry its way into my head, but I wouldn’t let it. At least I tried not to let it.
We had come to Kayakers Cove, a private kayaking getaway in Resurrection Bay just outside Seward, for two days of sea kayaking and comfort camping, that is to say sleeping in a cabin instead of a tent.
My wife, Kristan, had been to Kayakers Cove twice before and had been trying to get me to go there for years. She finally talked me into it this summer. We timed our trip to coincide with her sister’s family’s month-long stay in Alaska, as well as that of Akira Tatsuta, a 13-year-old Japanese exchange student we recently hosted for a month. Our friends from Fairbanks, Alex Clarke, Ann McBeth and their two kids, also joined us. There were 12 of us in our group, ranging in age from 7 to 50-something, and we had reserved the main cabin for two days and nights.
Tucked in a small, sheltered bay surrounded by snow-capped mountains and lush, green hillsides, Kayakers Cove is the perfect spot for novice sea kayakers, which we all were, to get their feet wet. The cove is located just 12 miles across the bay from Seward but you’d never know it.
The day before, we felt like we were stepping into an episode of “Lost” when the water taxi dropped us off at high tide. That is, until we got a look at the big, log cabin we would be staying in. The cabin is the biggest of three that are available for rent at Kayakers Cove and is nicer than a lot of houses in Fairbanks.
The great thing about Kayakers Cove, Kristan had told me, is that it has everything you need, which makes packing for the trip much easier; you don’t have to worry about dishes, silverware, stoves, coffee presses or even sleeping pads. The main cabin is equipped with a complete kitchen, including running water to do the dishes, though you do have to share the kitchen and living space with campers in the other cabins. There are mattresses to sleep on upstairs. All you need is a sleeping bag, clothes (especially rain gear), food and drink.
The shelves in the living area were filled with decks of cards, cribbage boards, backgammon boards and other classic board games like Monopoly, Clue and Trivial Pursuit to pass the time when it was raining or in the evening hours after dinner. There was even an old guitar lying around that Alex and Ann brought to life a we were sitting around the cabin at night.
You don’t even need a kayak, either. Kayakers Cove has a whole fleet of sea kayaks equipped with foot-controlled rudders. Paddles and life jackets are included in the rental price (a reasonable $20 a day for single kayaks and $30 for doubles), as are spray skirts if you want to use one. There was even a wide assortment of rubber boots to choose from in the event you or someone in your party forgot theirs.
There was even a sauna, which I was told by the caretaker was the first cabin built at Kayakers Cove. It’s been converted into a sauna now and we managed to scrounge up enough dry wood on our first night for a few of us to enjoy a lukewarm sauna.
Admittedly, we went to Kayaker’s Cove thinking we would be paddling with pods of orcas and dodging humpback whales breaching all around us. We imagined seals, sea lions and sea otters swimming along next to our kayaks.
As it turned out, we spent more time playing cards and reading then we did paddling because of the rain. I re-learned the game of cribbage, which I hadn’t played in years, and the kids passed the hours playing spoons, go fish, crazy eights, blackjack and poker, using Sour Patch Kids for poker chips. We had a talent contest after dinner on our second night, which provided enough entertainment that my wife, Kristan, has decided that it will be a regular feature during future camping trips.
On our first day, we decided to check out the only hiking trail at Kayakers Cove, which leads about two miles straight up a hill behind the cabins and crosses a large boulder field to a patch of snow near the top of the hillside. It was tricky and technical hiking. The rocks were slippery, the hill was steep and the trail was only marked with an occasional rock cairn, which made it tough to follow.
The more sensible hikers in our group turned around a little more than halfway up, while the rest of us — five kids and two adults — were determined to reach the snow. It took a lot longer than I had anticipated, but we finally made it, much to Akira’s delight. There is no snow where he lives in Japan and he thought it was great fun to slide down the snow field in his sneakers. It took us as long to hike back down the trail as it did going up as we picked our way through the rocks and searched for the trail.
We did manage to do some kayaking.
On our first night, eight of us took to the water in double kayaks and paddled to Fox Island, which sits just across the cove and offers a distant view of Seward. It was only the third time I have ever paddled a kayak and my second experience in a sea kayak. Except for a brief moment of panic when I wasn’t sure if my 11-year-old son, Logan, and I were going to beat an oncoming boat as we paddled across to the island, everything went great. Once I figured out how to steer the kayak using the rudder system, it was a piece of cake. The hardest part for me was getting in and out of the boat, which probably has more to do with me than the boat.
My sister-in-law, Kerry, collected a large pile of driftwood that we stuffed in our kayaks and hauled back to the cabin to use in the sauna and the cabin, earning her the Spirit of the North Award for the trip
It rained most of our second day at Kayakers Cove but the deluge did stop long enough to allow for an hour or two of paddling late in the day. With seven boats on the water, we looked like a mini armada. A few of us ventured outside the cove and paddled along the coastline for a bit before turning around when the rain started again.
Low clouds and fog obscured any views of the snow-capped mountains, but it was still beautiful, just in a different way. Just knowing that there was a pod of orcas somewhere down there or that a humpback whale could surface right underneath you at any second provided a sense of excitement you don’t get paddling around Chena Lake.
We never did see any whales or sea lions, but we did see a puffin mixed in with a small flock of sea gulls. Kristan and Kerry, got excited when they spotted a sea otter munching on something in the cove early our second morning. Logan and Akira saw a seal stick its head up out of the water as they were standing on a big rock near the entrance of the cove that they had hiked out to in the pouring rain. They came back soaking wet but excited.
The rain was coming down even harder on the third morning as we packed up and waited for our water taxi ride back to Seward. As was the case the previous two days, clouds and fog covered the mountains and hillsides.
As the water taxi entered the cove, I found part of me wanting to stay and play a few more games of cribbage.
Contact outdoors editor Tim Mowry at 459-7587.
<a href="http://newsminer.com/view/full_story/9200739/article-Families-spend-soggy-weekend-camping–kayaking-in-Alaska-s-Resurrection-Bay?instance=home_features_window_left2tag:news.google.com,2005:cluster=http://newsminer.com/view/full_story/9200739/article-Families-spend-soggy-weekend-camping–kayaking-in-Alaska-s-Resurrection-Bay?instance=home_features_window_left2Thu, 19 Aug 2010 16:35:27 GMT 00:00″>Families spend soggy weekend camping, kayaking in Alaska's Resurrection Bay
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